(2-5)– On Wednesday, I started the morning jogging with Gianna. Since St. James looked so nice from the singular view I got of it on the first day, and it’s one of the closer parks I hadn’t yet had a chance to explore, we decided to head towards Buckingham Palace once again. This time, walking, we passed the National Portrait Gallery and its courtyard full of sculptures. In the early morning, it definitely looks beautiful and intriguing, and I want to go back soon to explore. The roundabout in front of the gallery was a little intimidating, full of cars and people on their morning commutes, but we eventually walked our way through it and got to the opposite side, where a large arch marks the entrance to St. James Park, and further down the road, Buckingham Palace.
St. James Park is named after a women’s leper hospital dedicated to St.James the Less, one of the twelve chosen figures of Christianity. It is the easternmost park in a line including Green Park, Hyde Park, and Kensington Gardens; situated between the Horse Guard’s Road, the Mall, the Birdcage Walk, and Buckingham Palace.
Initially established for Henry VIII in 1532, the park was drained and landscaped by James I, and exotic animals were kept on its grounds. It was once famous for “impromptu acts of lechery,” (see this poem for examples of such behavior), and even housed cows for a bit which provided fresh milk. Charles II installed a canal, and used it as a “pleasure park” and shooting grounds, later opening it to the public. However, it did not take on its current grandeur until Charles IV and his faithful architect, John Nash, redesigned it in 1828.
With a lake in the center and it’s two islands, West and Duck (after the many waterfowl that inhabit it), the Swire and Tiffany Fountains, a children’s playground, a “Swiss chalet-style birdkeeper’s cottage” and the Blue Bridge (painted as such to provide an “uninterrupted view”) separating the lake in half, almost any spot affords a good view.
After 1664, a group of pelicans, originally gifted to Charles II from a Russian ambassador, have also resided in the park. Living up to 50 years and well-looked after (although they do occasionally snack on pidgeons, apparently), the current residents– Isla, Tiffany, Gargi, Sun, Moon, and Star– are well-loved and are frequently wandering the park looking for attention.
Only a few pelicans have been “free birds,” as they say: occasionally they have been found stealing fish at London Zoo! Unfortunately, however, small groups of pelicans are unable to produce fertile eggs, and this dilemma was brought up in 1995 by the House of Lords, where Lord Cambell of Croy exclaimed:
“My Lords, the Minister who replied to a similar question on this subject in 1988 indicated that the park pelicans had not laid an egg for 300 years. Is that because conditions in the park are not propitious for the propagation of pelicans? If so, is it kind to import those pelicans and so deny them a normal life with a mate, including the patter of little webbed feet?”
Another fun moment came while running on the path closest to The Birdcage. Perfectly enough, it was here that I spotted a man feeding the wild green parakeets of London. No one really knows how they got here– probably escapees from aviaries– but there are estimated to be a great number of breeding pairs throughout the city. It was quite a sight to see such a lively flash of unexpected green!
Overall, as much as I enjoyed this little park, it was slightly too crowded and slightly too small to use as a running park. It seemed that a number of tourists from Buckingham Palace had wandered down for the view, and before I even broke a sweat I had made my way around the lake twice. I think that if I had continued to follow the Diana Memorial walkway into Hyde and Green Park it might have turned out a bit better, but if I’m looking for a nice stroll or feel like people-watching, this would be an ideal place.
On the walk home, we passed one of the Horse Guards– a pretty iconic London scene, if you ask me. A random girl went up and touched the horse, which I really don’t think you’re supposed to do (the guards also don’t talk, so not a good combination), but it was, nonetheless, entertaining to see.
I wanted to include this picture because, in some ways, I still am a tourist. But at my core, I truly feel that the wrinkle of aggravation I felt when I saw the guards eyes throwing daggers, and the fact that the road was blocked because of photographers means that someday I have the potential to be something a bit more. Perhaps, even, a traveler.
Ethan Knox 
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